Monday, November 17, 2008

HOW TO PREVENT OR FIX A CRACKED DASHBOARD


Keeping your car looking great without sweating... that's my motto!

Your dashboard gets a tremendous amount of sun, solar heat and solar radiation. The natural tendency of the vinyl is to break down or deteriorate resulting in cracks and peeling. If you think about it, most of us park our cars in the sun... here in the tropics it's almost impossible not to. But, did you know that the interior of your car is literally baking in that heat? It can get to over 60 degrees Celsius inside. THAT's HOT!
But... don't worry.. IT CAN BE PREVENTED... and that prevention doesnt cost you more than $30!
Here's how... excerpted from a blog called: datingsite.blog...

Weather change is here and the cracked padded dashes are rolling in. With every weather change I get the phone calls. “My dash is cracked and what can be done to fix it.”

Due to the exposer to old mother nature, these materials become dried out and crack over time leaving you with a crack in your dash. Left unattended this small crack can and will get larger.

There are measures that can be taken to prevent the dash from getting cracked in the first place. Now I know your dash is already cracked and your wanting to know how to fix it, but this will prevent further cracks and keep your car cooler and looking nicer, and well…. for further reference.

One way to prevent this is to use a sunshade. This will not only protect your automotive dash from the sun but also keep your vehicle cooler keeping the plastic pieces cooler and less likely to warp and then crack.

Another way to prevent the materials from drying on your dash is to condition them with a good vinyl conditioner-protectant. Now I know I’ve always said to not put the slimy stuff on your interior pieces and parts … But if your vehicle is exposed to the sun on a constant basis, then I would recommend you use a vinyl conditioner. Now I’m not going to say that any old vinyl conditioner will work, because it won’t. Tire shine is not vinyl conditioner! This is probably one of the biggest mistakes made, and I do a lot of repair because of it. Tire shine contains solvents, which as you know from previous articles, it doesn’t mix well with the water based dyes being used on todays cars. What it does is lifts the dye from the surface, causing it to peel.

So no tire shineWhat I recommend to my customers is a product made from a leather conditioning producer that I feel from some of the research I’ve done is safe and should work very well, it’s made by Lexol and it’s called Vinylex. Designed by the guys that really know their stuff when it comes to interior conditioning and protecting.

The last and final tip to keeping your automotive interior, including your dash, looking it’s best and lasting longer is window tint. Now in some states you need to be careful with the tinting laws to make sure you don’t get it too dark, plus you need to think of your safety too. I have tint on our family Tahoe and I kinda wish I would have gone a little lighter, at night it’s really hard to see, my Tahoe stays nice and cool, but it’s a pain in the butt at night. I have to roll the window down sometimes just to see. So keep it light and you will be impressed with the results, plus it looks cool.

Now on with the fix for that crack in your dash.

Depending on where the crack is and how big it is will depend on how to fix it and how expensive the repair will be. If the crack is bigger then 2″-3″ and curled up on the edges, the repair will probably not look that great. There is a limit to the size of crack that can be repaired, too big and it probably won’t hold and will look like crap. If the crack is too big, replace the dash pad, don’t try to fix it. Another thing is location, if the crack is up close to the windshield then it’s almost impossible to do a repair without removing the windshield, which can be costly. So with that said you be the judge.

The first thing I do before I start any repair is to mix my color, this insures that at least the color will be right.

Next I inspect the crack in the dash, if the edges are curled up then you will need to trim that off with a razor blade or Xacto knife. The goal here is to get the area as level as you can. Now when doing so cut at a 45 degree angle and don’t bring the ends to a point, what I mean by this is trim all the way around the crack rounding off the ends of the crack, this will insure that the crack will stop and not crack further after your repair.


Of course your next step is prepping the repair area, use your prep solution with a scotch brite pad and clean the area thoroughly. You might need to clean the entire dash depending on where and how large the crack is.
Now it’s time to determine what fix you going to use.

If the crack is smaller then an 1/2″ I usually grab the super glue and do a super glue repair. I do this by spreading the glue in the crack then sanding it smooth with a 240 grit sandpaper, texture with your water based spray grain, then dye.
But there are times when your vinyl repair compound will need to be used, after all this is vinyl. The low cure usually works best because high heat tends to warp the repair area. This is where your patience comes in when doing your repairs. Thin layers of compound work best, curing and dying between coats until the area is level and smooth. You can texture while layering your compound with your grain pads. One little trick I use to help level the repair when using a grain pad is a little rubber squeegee about 3″x5″, it’s what body shops use to squeegee the water off the painted surface when they wet sand. This little thing works great, when you use your hand to imprint your grain into your repair, your hand kinda molds around the area and doesn’t leave a level area but with the rubber squeegee it gives you a little more backing when you go to imprint. Now graining your repair can be tricky, the low cure compound doesn’t grain that well, but if all else fails make sure the repair is level, this is your best hide. If that is achieved then texture with your spray grain.

One last trick up my sleeve is the use of a great product from Urethane Supply Co. This is a two part epoxy like substance that is specifically designed for padded dashes and the name says it all, Padded Dash Filler.This stuff is the bomb, when it comes to dash repair. Mixes like Bondo and is even applied like bondo, but its flexible. It’s just what the doctor ordered when it comes to dash repair. If the crack is larger then 1″ this is the stuff to use.

Now this product will require you to trim the area and then sand around the area about 1″ to 2″ out with a heavier grit sandpaper like a 180 grit, this gives it something to bite too. Trim down into the foam a little to, so that you make like a little groove for the compound to lay in.

Mix your compound on a small piece of tile, I like using small tile pieces, they clean up easily and are easier to hold when mixing and applying. Now when you get the product they send you the red catalyst, try the blue, it seems to set up a little quicker. The blue you can get at any automotive parts shop. But the red works just as good just takes it a little longer, time is money in my business.
Apply your compound liberally over the repair area, don’t worry about getting your first coat really smooth, all you need is to get it covered, you’ll be sanding it smooth later. Let it set up for a while, depending on the weather will depend on how long this stuff takes. You can speed it up a little with a heat gun but don’t melt it just give it a little boost.
Once hardened start sanding, I usually start with a 180 grit to knock off the big chunks then progressively move my way up to a finer grit like 240 and then to 400.
One coat won’t be sufficient, I promise, this is another layer thing. Sanding between coats. Each coat you apply you will need to make smoother. Again what your trying to achieve is a smooth level repair.

After all is smooth and level, grain with a spray grain then dye.

As far as texture goes, I use two types of spray grain. One is a water based spray grain and the other is Sems Texture Coat. In fact the Sems Texture Coat almost matches the some of the Pontiac dashes to a tee. Now the Sems Texture coat is a solvent based, but I haven’t had a problem with it peeling up against the water based dyes on the dash, so kudos to Sems.

One other trick I have found with the the Sems Texture Coat is after sprayed if you let it flash out a little but not dry completely, you can take your grain pad and imprint your grain into the texture coat, pretty cool huh.

Dash repair is an art and a craft, just like all automotive interior repairs. If the steps are followed right and patience is used in your repairs you success will be good.

Hope this helps in your dash repair adventure. One thing to always keep in mind is to keep your repair as level as possible, this is your best hide.

About the author: Mike Warrenhttp://theinteriorguyllc.comThe Interior Guy, LLC., Automotive Interior RepairI’ve been in the business for a long time and know a lot of the ends and outs of repairing interiors, from leather and vinyl repair to plastic repair and dyeing of all interior trim parts including carpet and cloth. Need some advice or a tip to fix your automotive interior, I’ve put together some really helpful material with some great products I recommend and use in my repairs. Visit theinteriorguyllc.com for more articles just like this one.

Thursday, November 6, 2008

LEXOL LEATHER CLEANER, LEXOL LEATHER CONDITIONER ... What some users have to say!


If you've been following my blog for a while, you know that I love to keep my car's in tip-top condition, BUT I DON'T LIKE WORKING UP A SWEAT TO DO IT!

Lexol, Vinylex and KozaK are 3 products I have used for decades (sounds better than 40 years huh!)... and I swear by them. They are reasonably priced, easy to use, and work beautifully. They are also idiot ptoof... you just don't have to worry about them... They CANNOT hurt your leather or vinyl!

You can find them at many retail outlets including Autobacs, Stamford Tyres, Castilla Furniture, Groomwerks, D'Best Respray (at Malayan Motors), TS Automotive, many DIY shops or online at www.lexolasia.com

Here are some more comments from ordinary people like you and I who have tried Lexol in their cars, and homes. If you have leather... you should have Lexol to take care of it! NOTHING ELSE WORKS AS WELL!

Here's why:

Charlie from the USA says on 13 Sept 2008...

"The Lexol pH cleaner worked extremely well to clean automotive leather upholstery and surfaces. Just follow the instructions on the bottle and it does a fantastic job. Always use the pH cleaner before you apply the Lexol conditioner since you don't want to apply new oils over existing dirt. The pH cleaner comes out as a clear liquid that is more viscous than water. I recommend using a terry cloth sponge to create more lather than just using a cotton cloth or terry cloth. I have tried several over the counter leather cleaner/conditioners and Lexol beats them all. Pros: Cleans leather without drying it. Very easy to use. The product is a bit expensive and hard to find compared to the over-the-counter products, but it should be the only product to buy. It's concentrated so it lasts much longer than the other products out there. Overall: If you own any leather accessories or cars with leather interiors, Lexol pH cleaner and Lexol conditioner should be on your list. "

Mr. "Tennis5" on 6 Feb 2008 said:

I" have been putting this on the leather in my 2001 Montero since I purchased the vehicle. I apply it about 3 or 4 times per year. My leather looks practically brand new and most people that get in it comment on how new the leather looks. I can only assume it is because I use Lexol conditioner on it. I see other cars that are 7 years old and the leather is trashed...not mine. Leather still looks and smells new! If you own a car with leather, this is a must have product!"

Charlie from the USA added on 13 Sept 2008:

"The Lexol Leather conditioner contains special oils that rejuvenates and softens leather surfaces. It is easy to use and the instructions on the bottle provide the optimal application method. I have a leather wrapped steering wheel that has grown stiff due to its exposure to dry summer heat over the years. I had been using B##$$* M##%%*'s Leather Conditioner/Cleaner combo and some other OTC products without much success. The Lexol pH cleaner worked well to clean the leather, and the Lexol leather conditioner was just amazing. It turned the leather almost brand new and all of the creases were soft again. I recommend using a terry cloth or cotton cloth to apply it onto surfaces. The Lexol conditioner is an amber liquid that is only slightly more viscous than water and has a unique smell. Very easy to use, and works as advertised. It should be the only leather conditioner you use - the over the counter stuff doesn't work. Hard to find and expensive, but worth the money as you only use a little. Overall: If you own any leather accessories or cars with interior leathers, Lexol pH cleaner and Lexol conditions are must-buy items."

Mr. R. Copeland from Alabama says:

"My car is 10 years old and I've used Lexol on it since it was new. The leather hasn't cracked. It smells good and works great. "

Jennifer Baretta from Billings Montana said on 6 Oct 2008:

"So far it seems to work great on my leather living room furniture. I also plan to use it on my van and truck seats as well. I also got the cleaner which I havent used yet, but anticipate to work well too."