MAKE YOUR CAR WORTH $$$THOUSANDS MORE!

In the newspaper today, the headline screams "COE PRICES HIT RECORD HIGH"!!

STOP! What does that mean for you and I who drive a 2-3 year old car that we lovingly (and easily) keep looking brand new with regular use of LEXOL Leather Cleaner and Conditioner, VINYLEX (for our vinyl or half-leather seats, door panels, and dash board) and of course, the famous KOZAK AUTO DRYWASH CLOTH (cleans and polishes your car- no water and no scratching - GUARANTEED!).

That means we have $$$$$ .. an asset.. ... Our gently used car will be worth much more in the resale market.

Why let those bloodsucker car dealers make all the $$$$? It's easy to sell your own used car- especially if it looks like it's still brand new. But first, we have to make it irrisistable!

And- that's where we at ProMedUSA come in. FIRST- and it's really common sense- the first thing a prospective buyer (or that hot young babe or chickie outside Zouk) will see is the exterior of your car. If it's dirty, scratched, dinged, or covered with swirl marks- UGH- thumbs down my friend! You're dead meat even before you begin!

But- it can be easily remedied! First- if your beloved BM or Merc or Subaru or Mazda or Ferrari, or whatever your wheels are is new- START IMMEDIATELY BY USING THE KOZAK AUTO DRY WASH CLOTH instead of those cheap microfibre cloths to clean and polish your car.
Look Einstein - microfibre is P-L-A-S-T-I-C .... Ya get it? You are rubbing the dirt and grime INTO the paint! Of course you'll wind up with swirl marks... Ahh I see a dull glow coming from behind your eyes... The lights are coming on!

Seriously my friend, even though they feel soft, microfibre does not trap the dirt inside the fabric AWAY from your car's paint like the KOZAK does. That crap stays right on the surface of the microfiber cloth, and you are grinding that dirt into yoiur car's paint every time you wipe down your car with those cheap microfiber cloths. YES they are cheap- but come on guys (and ladies)- you spend several year's salary on your automobile. Isn't it worth an extra $20 a year to keep it looking new? That's a lot cheaper than a $200 detailing job to remove all those swirls and scratches caused by that cheap-n- NOT good microfibre cloth, or those dirty cloths used at your local $6 car wash.

Oooops - did I say car wash??? Hmmm.. That's another one of my pet peeves! CAR WASHES... They waste a LOT of water, they scratch your car (honestly- do you think that guy swishing that dirty rag he just dropped on the ground over your baby's acrylic surface gives a rat's ass about your car?), and again EINSTEIN - you listening or you pickin boogers outa your nose - listen up as there's a test later - soap (car washes use the cheapest shit detergent that they can find) and water will gradually dull your paint and remove the wax you so lovingly applied to your car. Think about it! You wash your hands after you wax your car don't you? Soap gets the wax off your hands doesn't it??? DUH....

Ok- the KozaK Cloth is made from the softest American cotton available. It's specially woven, napped and fluffed so it has trillions (Obama likes that number) of fibres that stand up and trap the dirt between them. It's impregnated with a proprietary and patented GREEN chemical that attracts the dirt into the cloth like a magnet and holds it there AWAY from the surface of your car.

That's why, since 1926, tens of millions (sorry Barak but can't use your favorite number here) of people in 48 countries worldwide have used the KozaK to clean and polish their car- no water - no scratching - GUARANTEED!

Used on a dry car, the KozaK cloth will simply and easily remove all the dust, dirt, road grime from your car without water. Your car's finish will gleam! That hot little chickie's head will turn as you drive by... And on a full sized car, the KozaK will last a year!

Ok cheapskates... Here's the scoop.. Less than 50 cents per "dry wash" - YOU save $5.50 each time. That's 2 plates of chicken rice at Whampo bro!!

Alright, ... I'm tired of writing now. More later.. About how to use LEXOL and VINYLEX to keep the inside of your car looking great.

Learn about the KozaK. Go to www.kozakasia.com and watch the sexiest KozaK babe in Singapore show you how easy it is to keep your car looking brand new.

And that my friends is worth THOUSANDS of $$$$ when you go to sell or trade your car.

A Car Magazine with GUTS!

I am so freekin' sick and tired of all the lame n tame rags published here in Singapore pretending to be THE car magazine.

Well, you guys (and girls) living here haven't got a freekin' clue what a REAL car magazine is - you've been deprived all your lives by inane, boring, unimaginative editors feeding you predigested pablum ( hey stupid.. It's like porridge for babies ) that they wanna pass off as the latest and greatest.

They add a few boring photos of some chick they scrounged up, slather makeup on and give her a non- revealing, badly fitting bikini, put her in a set of 6 inch stilettos and shove her in front of some tricked out piece of shit picked to be the cover car of the month.

Never mind the broad doesn't know a stick shift from your dipstick but... You buy it 'cause you're hungry for anything with a vroom vroom and the stench of petrol.

Well, look no further- I just ran into a new magazine that I think has the balls to break the mold in this island ex-colony and piss on the wheels of all the other editors trying to shove that same old crap down our throats. It's refreshing, but Autoi is a bit young yet ( read.. Design still a bit rough) but the content is GOLDEN and promises to really light your jets with dinger hardening reviews of REAL muscle cars from the '60's and '70's, Harley's, real Bad Assed Bad Boys, real good shit..

AUTOi is it's name, and for you freekin' Singapore cheapskates out there, it's only $3.80 a copy. Almost less than a plate of chicken rice with some spare parts thrown in... And you won't wanna wrap fish with it after you open it.

You'll read it, covet it, treasure it, and share it with your true friends and auto aficionados.

Check it out- if if doesn't make your dipstick hard.. Well maybe MediaCorp will send one of their whiny screaming over the hill American Idol first round bimbo losers over to your HDB with one of those famous little blue pills to try to garner your vote.

AUTOi - take a look at it! AND... see them at SAFRA MOTORSPORTS CLUB CARNIVAL FROM 1-4 APRIL. Go to www.autoi.sg for details.

Oh.. And if you happen to pick up a KozaK Auto DryWash Cloth and a bottle of Lexol at the same time.... Very Cool, Bro!!!

Enjoy!

BMW M5 - A SATISFIED LEXOL USER!

Lexol will keep your leather looking great... simply, easily, and inexpensively. No more cracking or peeling!

This gentleman has a 1993 Silver BMW M5, with black leather interior. Here is what he has to say about Lexol:

"Tried this out on my leather last night and WOW! Completely rejuvinated my seats! The usual areas on the driver's seat with wear, fading and even some slight cracking looks nearly new again!. The stuff comes in 2 parts, a cleaner and a conditioner. Just had time to do the one seat last night but I will be doing to whole car this weekend. Nothing better than a BMW with a well maintained leather interior.....when I haven't been in my car for a while and get back in the smell that greets me is in itself an experience worth waiting for! "

For more information on Lexol, please go to: www.lexolasia.com

LEXOL LEATHER CLEANER and LEXOL LEATHER CONDITIONER

Leather seats require a little bit of care... note that I say a little bit..after all, the title of my blog is "no sweat" car care, and I mean that! I don't like to work up a sweat!

If you've been following my blog, you know that I really like the LEXOL brand of Leather Cleaner, and their Leather Conditioner. I have used them for years (almost 35 I believe), and have also compared them to many other products on the market, sometimes even doing a side by side comparison.

Most of the other products coat the leather. Very few will first, foam out the dirt from the pores, which is important. leather is like your skin, and you cannot rub the dirt into the leather. You need to gently remove it, and Lexol Leather Cleaner does just that with its gentle but effective foaming action. It's also pH balanced to the pH of leather so it does not dry or otherwise injure the leather.

Then, I follow the cleaning with a thin coat of Lexol Leather Conditioner, while the leather is still moist from the cleaner. It is absorbed right into the leather, and it's formulation actually bonds with the leather fibers to strengthen, condition and soften them. It replaces the oils that were originally added to the leather in the tanning process, but DOES NOT make your leather feel greasy or oily or slippery.

And, this is where LEXOL beats the competition hands down! Lexol penetrates into the leather... most of the other products "dress up" the leather. They surface coat it, which does nothing to prevent cracking, drying, creasing or eliminate that stiff feeling. Most other products make the leather shiny, slippery or oily feeling. I HATE THAT! I hate stopping at a traffic light and sliding in my seat!

LEXOL simply restores the leather to its like new, original condition. When I do a side by side comparison, the difference is really startling!

Here is what another, fellow blogger has to say: from the "Learning Curve" Blog http://dnolearningcurveyt.blogspot.com/

"Could you suggest a good leather seat treatment for cleaning and keeping it soft and supple? Thanks. Ron? - Lincoln town car leather seat oem "

Could you recommend a benign leather seat treatment for cleaning and keeping it soft and supple? Thanks. Ron? The leather seats are not worn much, but are getting hard and may collapse if I don't treat them soon. Age is part of the problem as this is a 1971 Lincoln Town Car. Perhaps one of you could recommend a brand of leather treatment and cleaner.

ANS: LEXOL first use the leather cleaner then follow up with the conditioner both made by LEXOL.They have to be bought separately,unexcelled stuff on the market no doubt. cleaner- comes in a orange spay bottle. conditioner- comes in a mousy spray bottle. Can be bought at most auto parts stores. "

I used LEXOL on my 1971 Roll Royce Silver Shadow. My seats were just like his, dry, brittle, cracking. I had to apply a thin coat of Lexol Leather Conditioner each day for about a week. BUT... after a week the seats were supple again! Lexol will not repair the cracks that have already occurred, but it will re-condition and soften the leather and prevent further deterioration.

Try it! For more information check out their website: WWW.LEXOLASIA.COM

HOW TO PREVENT OR FIX A CRACKED DASHBOARD

Keeping your car looking great without sweating... that's my motto!

Your dashboard gets a tremendous amount of sun, solar heat and solar radiation. The natural tendency of the vinyl is to break down or deteriorate resulting in cracks and peeling. If you think about it, most of us park our cars in the sun... here in the tropics it's almost impossible not to. But, did you know that the interior of your car is literally baking in that heat? It can get to over 60 degrees Celsius inside. THAT's HOT!

But... don't worry.. IT CAN BE PREVENTED... and that prevention doesnt cost you more than $30!

Here's how... excerpted from a blog called: datingsite.blog...

Weather change is here and the cracked padded dashes are rolling in. With every weather change I get the phone calls. “My dash is cracked and what can be done to fix it.”

Due to the exposer to old mother nature, these materials become dried out and crack over time leaving you with a crack in your dash. Left unattended this small crack can and will get larger.

There are measures that can be taken to prevent the dash from getting cracked in the first place. Now I know your dash is already cracked and your wanting to know how to fix it, but this will prevent further cracks and keep your car cooler and looking nicer, and well…. for further reference.

One way to prevent this is to use a sunshade. This will not only protect your automotive dash from the sun but also keep your vehicle cooler keeping the plastic pieces cooler and less likely to warp and then crack.

Another way to prevent the materials from drying on your dash is to condition them with a good vinyl conditioner-protectant. Now I know I’ve always said to not put the slimy stuff on your interior pieces and parts … But if your vehicle is exposed to the sun on a constant basis, then I would recommend you use a vinyl conditioner. Now I’m not going to say that any old vinyl conditioner will work, because it won’t. Tire shine is not vinyl conditioner! This is probably one of the biggest mistakes made, and I do a lot of repair because of it. Tire shine contains solvents, which as you know from previous articles, it doesn’t mix well with the water based dyes being used on todays cars. What it does is lifts the dye from the surface, causing it to peel.

So no tire shine…What I recommend to my customers is a product made from a leather conditioning producer that I feel from some of the research I’ve done is safe and should work very well, it’s made by Lexol and it’s called Vinylex. Designed by the guys that really know their stuff when it comes to interior conditioning and protecting.

The last and final tip to keeping your automotive interior, including your dash, looking it’s best and lasting longer is window tint. Now in some states you need to be careful with the tinting laws to make sure you don’t get it too dark, plus you need to think of your safety too. I have tint on our family Tahoe and I kinda wish I would have gone a little lighter, at night it’s really hard to see, my Tahoe stays nice and cool, but it’s a pain in the butt at night. I have to roll the window down sometimes just to see. So keep it light and you will be impressed with the results, plus it looks cool.

Now on with the fix for that crack in your dash.

Depending on where the crack is and how big it is will depend on how to fix it and how expensive the repair will be. If the crack is bigger then 2″-3″ and curled up on the edges, the repair will probably not look that great. There is a limit to the size of crack that can be repaired, too big and it probably won’t hold and will look like crap. If the crack is too big, replace the dash pad, don’t try to fix it. Another thing is location, if the crack is up close to the windshield then it’s almost impossible to do a repair without removing the windshield, which can be costly. So with that said you be the judge.

The first thing I do before I start any repair is to mix my color, this insures that at least the color will be right.

Next I inspect the crack in the dash, if the edges are curled up then you will need to trim that off with a razor blade or Xacto knife. The goal here is to get the area as level as you can. Now when doing so cut at a 45 degree angle and don’t bring the ends to a point, what I mean by this is trim all the way around the crack rounding off the ends of the crack, this will insure that the crack will stop and not crack further after your repair.

Of course your next step is prepping the repair area, use your prep solution with a scotch brite pad and clean the area thoroughly. You might need to clean the entire dash depending on where and how large the crack is.
Now it’s time to determine what fix you going to use.

If the crack is smaller then an 1/2″ I usually grab the super glue and do a super glue repair. I do this by spreading the glue in the crack then sanding it smooth with a 240 grit sandpaper, texture with your water based spray grain, then dye.
But there are times when your vinyl repair compound will need to be used, after all this is vinyl. The low cure usually works best because high heat tends to warp the repair area. This is where your patience comes in when doing your repairs. Thin layers of compound work best, curing and dying between coats until the area is level and smooth. You can texture while layering your compound with your grain pads. One little trick I use to help level the repair when using a grain pad is a little rubber squeegee about 3″x5″, it’s what body shops use to squeegee the water off the painted surface when they wet sand. This little thing works great, when you use your hand to imprint your grain into your repair, your hand kinda molds around the area and doesn’t leave a level area but with the rubber squeegee it gives you a little more backing when you go to imprint. Now graining your repair can be tricky, the low cure compound doesn’t grain that well, but if all else fails make sure the repair is level, this is your best hide. If that is achieved then texture with your spray grain.

One last trick up my sleeve is the use of a great product from Urethane Supply Co. This is a two part epoxy like substance that is specifically designed for padded dashes and the name says it all, Padded Dash Filler.This stuff is the bomb, when it comes to dash repair. Mixes like Bondo and is even applied like bondo, but its flexible. It’s just what the doctor ordered when it comes to dash repair. If the crack is larger then 1″ this is the stuff to use.

Now this product will require you to trim the area and then sand around the area about 1″ to 2″ out with a heavier grit sandpaper like a 180 grit, this gives it something to bite too. Trim down into the foam a little to, so that you make like a little groove for the compound to lay in.

Mix your compound on a small piece of tile, I like using small tile pieces, they clean up easily and are easier to hold when mixing and applying. Now when you get the product they send you the red catalyst, try the blue, it seems to set up a little quicker. The blue you can get at any automotive parts shop. But the red works just as good just takes it a little longer, time is money in my business.
Apply your compound liberally over the repair area, don’t worry about getting your first coat really smooth, all you need is to get it covered, you’ll be sanding it smooth later. Let it set up for a while, depending on the weather will depend on how long this stuff takes. You can speed it up a little with a heat gun but don’t melt it just give it a little boost.

Once hardened start sanding, I usually start with a 180 grit to knock off the big chunks then progressively move my way up to a finer grit like 240 and then to 400.

One coat won’t be sufficient, I promise, this is another layer thing. Sanding between coats. Each coat you apply you will need to make smoother. Again what your trying to achieve is a smooth level repair.

After all is smooth and level, grain with a spray grain then dye.

As far as texture goes, I use two types of spray grain. One is a water based spray grain and the other is Sems Texture Coat. In fact the Sems Texture Coat almost matches the some of the Pontiac dashes to a tee. Now the Sems Texture coat is a solvent based, but I haven’t had a problem with it peeling up against the water based dyes on the dash, so kudos to Sems.

One other trick I have found with the the Sems Texture Coat is after sprayed if you let it flash out a little but not dry completely, you can take your grain pad and imprint your grain into the texture coat, pretty cool huh.

Dash repair is an art and a craft, just like all automotive interior repairs. If the steps are followed right and patience is used in your repairs you success will be good.

Hope this helps in your dash repair adventure. One thing to always keep in mind is to keep your repair as level as possible, this is your best hide.

About the author: Mike Warrenhttp://theinteriorguyllc.comThe Interior Guy, LLC., Automotive Interior RepairI’ve been in the business for a long time and know a lot of the ends and outs of repairing interiors, from leather and vinyl repair to plastic repair and dyeing of all interior trim parts including carpet and cloth. Need some advice or a tip to fix your automotive interior, I’ve put together some really helpful material with some great products I recommend and use in my repairs. Visit theinteriorguyllc.com for more articles just like this one.

VINYLEX TESTIMONIALS

I've used Vinylex for quite some time now and it's something that I recommend all my friends use regularly to keep their car in first class condition. In the hot sun and humidity here, it is critical that your dashboard and interior be conditioned and protected against the effects of solar heat and radiation. It only takes 3-4 minutes to do, and it will pay huge dividends in the lifespan and appearance of your car.

Here are a couple of testimonials from others that have bought Vinylex recently:

Great cleaner and protector (2008-08-12)
I used this product on my BMW leatherette interior and rubber surfaces on the exterior. Also works with plastic under the hood too! You get superior results for just a little money. I also used it detailing my wife's woefully neglected SAAB right before a trade-in estimate and made the car look worth much more than a previous estimate. This stuff is a must own if you want your car looking great. And one more good thing is that I keep it in my car's trunk all summer and the heat doesn't appear to spoil the Vinylex's effectiveness.

Great Stuff (2007-11-18)
I keep cars for a long time. My current vehicle is 10 years old, and I've always used Vinylex on it. The vinyl dashboard really looks as good as new.

I used a popular silicon based product on the car I had before this one, and the vinyl on the dashboard cracked after five or six years. Like the other reviewer said - Vinylex does not contain silicon.

Works great on the dash and bumpers (2007-10-31)
I bought Lexol Vinylex because I saw it mentioned on a Subaru owners chat room. I found that it did put my dash back to the way it looked and felt when I drove it away from the showroom. I did the black bumpers on my Subaru Forester and my neighbor, who has a classic car, came over and asked me what I used. It is supposed to keep the plastic/vinyl from cracking. I am very impressed with Vinylex and I will keep using it. I give this product five stars.

Great Product - hard to find (2007-02-19)I've used this product for years. I stay with it because it offers non-silicone protection (I understand silicone can promote dash cracking with age), non-greasy touch (nice for not slipping off the steering wheel), and a non-glossy look to the dash. Non-glossy means it won't collect dust the way most shiny products will. It has UV protection. Just try it.

Well, I could not have said it better! Try Vinylex, and for leather, try Lexol products. Again... they are value for money!